Thursday 12 January 2012

McQueen Dress for Givenchy Process

Totally didn't realize that there were patterns available from Vogue when McQueen was designing for Givenchy. Upon discovery, a mad flurry of frantic research ensued ending with a trip to this blog: http://blog.pattern-vault.com/alexander-mcqueen-series/ All McQueen x Givenchy collaborations are accounted for.
Two designs are loved above the rest. Here's the favourite. Always love for asymmetry and tailoring. Production commences. Using a linen-cotton blend... might not be the best choice, but it was at hand. Goal: finish cutting this week.


Friday 6 January 2012

McQueen Kimono Top Final

Finished version of the Alexander McQueen Kimono top found here. Striped twill fabric from Lida Baday. Composition: 60% polyester, 40% silk. 160cm wide; 1.7 metres used, 0.7 of a metre just for sleeves.

Progress pics of front sections. Flounce added to front for improved fit.


Front and back finished and collar applied. Very happy with the sleeveless look. Figuring it would take about one metre of 160cm wide fabric to make again. Shot of inside. Black fabric on inside is interfacing. All raw edges are serged out of laziness. Probably should have been bias bound. 

Finished top with sleeves in natural light. Very happy with results. In the end, it wasn't too difficult to finish. It was important to read the instructions and make notes on the pattern pieces. Trials in muslin are necessary to teach oneself how to understand the pattern. It was a personal choice to omit a step or two, and the instructions do not appear to be 100% complete. Definitely going to make this again though.
Thought a lot about McQueen while making this. Is it part of the mourning process? Thought: the world doesn't get to experience anything new from the man. It's over. Everything he had to offer is already out there. That said, his work is for the wealthy few. Take what you can and keep learning and pushing forward.

Thursday 5 January 2012

Trompe L'oeil - Part 2

Trompe L'oeil, French for 'deceive the eye', is an art technique involving extremely realistic imagery in order to create the optical illusion that the depicted objects appear in three dimensions.
-Wikipedia


Photocopy. Full Texture. Off-Kilter. Unusual Placement. Unreal. 




Inner Detail. Imprint. Added Construction. Interfacing. Tailoring. Layers.





This McQ dress is especially interesting. One might imagine that the original safety pin covered dress was created and then photographed. That photo would then be transferred onto fabric used to create this basic shift dress. It is the idea of couture made available at a lower price. Ingenious it may be, but couture it is not. New project: recreate this dress but for real. Also: buy many safety pins.

Trompe L'oeil - Part 1

Trompe L'oeil, French for 'deceive the eye', is an art technique involving extremely realistic imagery in order to create the optical illusion that the depicted objects appear in three dimensions.
-Wikipedia


Tracing. Outer Detail. Line Art. Copy Paste. Graphic. Pen and Ink.   
  Partial Detail. Illustrator. Vector. Technical Drawing.
 Top Stitching. Piping. 2D.


Comme Des Garcons AW2009:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2009/ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons



Rosalind Keep AW2009:
http://rosalindkeep.tumblr.com/

Tuesday 3 January 2012

Issey Miyake for Vogue Patterns

Getting excited over vintage designer patterns for Vogue. Looking at Issey Miyake... trying to decide which ones to hunt for. Current top five picks: 1836, 2449, 2687, 1736, 1875



Bonus: the original Issey Miyake blazer on etsy: http://www.etsy.com/listing/89439656/issey-miyake-striped-blazer-coat-black

Monday 2 January 2012

McQueen Kimono Top Progress

First trial process in muslin. Sorting out instructions and pattern markings. Xing out unnecessary markings (less to thread baste on final pieces). Orange shaded area for interfacing (gives stability to folds). Blue dashed lines for fabric pattern matching. Added pattern piece "front flounce" to slash in extra fullness over upper hips. Modified fit is somewhere between US 6 and 8. All original markings transferred to muslin and lines are drawn in. Life is much easier.